It’s always better if the owner
has a corner spot on the block so that the customers can see people coming from
different directions. It is the gathering place of all sorts of characters from
the most sophisticated to the simplest and most humble representatives of
Brazili
an humanity. It’s a friendly and
comfortable location that over the years has amassed its own particular
clientele and thusly each establishment has its own personality.
During a normal day, the regulars
may pass by and salute the friendly and familiar faces at the stand up bar
(there may be some stools) or they might just stop for a small but strong
coffee and empanada or a shot of pinga
(clear or yellow) which is distilled sugarcane liqueur that is more palatable
to many if mixed with passion fruit or any other number of tropical fruits.
These are called “batidas,” but it doesn’t stop there.
There are various types of “batidas.” Some have soaked herbs,
roots and others alle
ge having medicinal plants inside the bottle to give the
stuff a different flavor and sometimes a different effect. Brazilians swear by
the healing qualities of these ingredients.
My favorite is a nice mild ginger
“batida.” The ginger is blended with “cachaça” to make a sort of spicy drink
which is then smoothed out with condensed milk and other sweeteners. Be
careful. This stuff can beat a swift path to your head and make you believe you
just might be a little smarter, stronger, funnier or faster than you really
are. There is another popular blend made of fresh squeezed lime and sugar and
that is called a “caipirinha” and it also has several different mutations that
might utilize vodka or some other clear alcoholic beverage. Some Brazilians
like to make a sort of boiler maker by downing a shot and following it with a
swig of beer.
Along with the traditional alcohol,
there are the snacks which can vary from different types of cheeses, fried pieces of chicken, sausages,
fried
fatback pork, stuffed pastries,
kibe’s (there is a strong Syrian influence in many Brazilian kitchens and
these are fried meatballs made with hamburger, cracked wheat and fresh mint)
and there might be a “bill of fair” offering several barbequed pieces of
popular cuts of meat. Sometimes fresh fried pan fish is offered up. There are
also pastries stuffed with chicken and cheese. There’s the famous Portuguese
“pastel” which is a quick fried pasta-like shell stuffed with meat, cheese and
other combinations of 
things including palm hearts, onions etc. French fries
are never in fault.
If you’re going to partake of these
goodies, it’s a wise idea to make sure they are fresh, as the local health
departments don’t generally regulate this type of establishment; however, I
never saw anyone get sick just over the food without the strong influence of
too much booze.
Please don’t get the idea that
Brazilians go to these places to eat and get drunk. They’re more like places to
roster in and to let the rest of the world know you’re OK, making your rounds
today and incase any friend is looking for you, they’ll know where to get news
about you.
It is rare to see the same people
every day. It is always a gathering place of friends, new and old. Loud talking
and yelling will take place. The waiters will be verbally chastised, but in
good humor. All bills will be carefully scrutinized and argued over and there
will always be the ever present “mooch” trying to get someone to buy them a
drink or a cigarette. Every street bar or “pé sujo” will have a moocher and a
beggar or two isn’t uncommon.
You also might find fresh green
coconuts that are sliced open just enough to insert a straw for anyone needing
hydration and it is very popular to add vodka or something similar to combine
with the fresh coconut juice/water right inside of the coconut.
The “pé sujo” can also be called a “butiquim” and don’t be surprised if
someone has a guitar and a rather odd rendition of what was once a very popular
song. Musicians, artist, public servan
ts, journalist, educators, lawyers,
accountants and almost any other professional will find their way to this type
of gathering place. If you don’t speak Portuguese, don’t worry, because
everyone will try to communicate in English using words they have heard in
movies, songs, on the streets, from sailors, or even in good understandable
English. You’ll make friends faster trying to learn some Portuguese no matter
how embarrassed you might feel for trying. “Pé Sujos” are a part of the
remnants of the old bohemian traditions of Brazil. Don’t be surprised if you
see children sent to pick up beer and cigarettes for their parents and no one
would ever think ill of it. There are no hang-ups about children running this
type of errand for their family and they seem to enjoy a short moment of mixing
with the denizens of this socially acceptable watering hole.
I shouldn’t leave this subject alone
without going into the beers. Each “dirty foot” will promote a main brand of
beer, because that particular distributor provides them with the tables,
chairs, signs and the Styrofoam thermal containers that keep the beer cold
while it sets on the table. Of course
the aforementioned are plastered with the name of the beer company providing
the accessories.
Generally one large liter bottle
will be served at a time wit
h the correct number of smaller sized glasses so
that it can be shared and kept fresh. I would not try to suggest which beer
“brand” is the best. I’ve learned from an old beer salesman that the freshest
“beer” is the best. There are probably about ten or so popular brands and they
all take turns as far as their popularity goes. Try them. You’ll pick one that
you like.
If you haven’t gotten the idea as of
yet, the “dirty foot” is a very important and integral part of the bohemian
Brazilian social life. Other countries might have the barber shop, the general
store, the soda fountain, but they all serve the same purpose. They bring
people together and they are a part of social networking.
